São Gonçalo: No network coverage

After half a days' travel my spirits finally started getting  higher when I encountered some first signs of civilization. The village of São Gonçalo. One could easily say, the village in the middle of nowhere, but a better title would be "the village in the edge of nowhere". Theoretically, just 5 more km of dust and I would be on my asphalt way to Serro.
But I had to stop and eat and drink.
One gets this strange feeling when coming to a new place one is being stared from windows. I remembered these welcome signs, with a raven sitting on top, in god-forgotten  Far-West towns:
"Stranger, welcome to our little village. 30 people visited us last year. 10 left alive".

As I was going around in the sleepy dirt streets, the only shop open seemed to be the local tyre repairer. Suddenly I was glad the Casserole had survived the road without incidents. As for eating, "Yes, of course!" said the young lady in the bar, showing me some packs of chips. On the contrary, there were about a thousand of different alcohols decorating her bar. ("I must to get out of here before dark," I thought.)
But in less than half an hour I was lying like a seal on the small terrace of the bar, enjoying the last sun of the day and unable to move. Pringles are not a powerful counterpart to Brazilian beers (675cl). The good thing is, they can quickly make you not give a shit about leaving anymore, or anything else for that matter. This was exactly the feeling I had come here for. And if it took two beers to get it, the price was definitely good.

After I managed to get up from my seat (I was the only customer all that time), I set off again for better roads, and when I finally reached the asphalt road it felt like, I don't know, coming back home. The noise ceased, dust became a bad memory, and I stopped feeling like a human cocktail shaker…

Highlights of the day: Being there, speaking with the local borrachero (the tyre repairer), having two huge beers and Pringles and not giving a flying shit about much. Had not happened to me for some time.
Downsides:  Nothing really. Just one good steak and coffee far from nirvana actually.

(The pics from the village are in the previous page, driving to Serro through Sao Gonçalo)

Next: Serro: Jingle all the way